Cricklade and Friends

Early morning haze has become another beast entirely, grey brown tentacles spread out into the countryside follow the train tracks all the way to Swindon. Looking like the bedraggled backpackers we are, Alan (our new housesitting host) has no trouble identifying us as we leave the station. He is a friendly, fit looking older gentleman…

Love You till the End of the World

Fisterra – Cape Finisterre Looks like our plan to convert to Spanish time is finally working. I wake up at about ten am. Pam of course has been awake for hours and is keen to up and at ’em. She has forgotten our discussion from the previous night to check out as late as possible…

On the Buses

Negreira – Santiago – Fisterra We wake to the sound of heavy rain and gusty wind. Last night we came to the conclusion that neither of us were enjoying walking in the wet weather (surprise, surprise) and that we needed to strike a balance between the chance of injury in the wet (high) versus the…

Rain, Rain go away . . .

Santiago de Compostela – Negreira We wake late for a day we know we will have to be walking and it is almost 9:45 before we leave the pension after having coffee and toast for Pam in the cafe on the ground floor. The sky is heavy, grey and forbidding however it is not actually…

Waking up in Santiago de Compostela

We made it ! We arrived into Santiago yesterday, greeted enthusiastically by fellow pilgrims, who were both happy for us and celebrating their own arrival and this amazing achievement. I already had a clear understanding that the Camino for us, was about the journey here and not the destination but we still went straight to the…

It’s the final countdown.

Sarria – Portomarin Breakfast starts at 7:00am at the Hotel Alfonso and is too good to miss. We are packed and ready by seven, we eat lightly for we know the day ahead is long and ‘flat’. Flat is a word that is very open to interpretation on the Camino. The majority of the Meseta…

Stitch the Sky

Triacastela – Sarria ‘Tis the pilgrim’s lot to wake early which does not jibe well with the Spanish way of life. Breakfast at the Case Rural starts at eight am which is still before sunrise and Pam and I are champing at the bit and first to the table in the early morning. Soon we…

What goes up, must come down.

O Cebreiro – Triacastela I wake during the night tossing and turning trying to get comfortable. As I go to sit up my left knee lets out a crack like a rifle shot and I feel something on the medial side suck back into place. Ahhhhh the relief……….at last. The long walk uphill and the…

Portable Tree

La Portela de Valcarce – O Cebreiro It is still dark when we leave the truck stop from hell and the street lights of La Portela de Valcarce cast an eerie orange glow as we walk through the street down the middle of the little village. Ahead of us a large dog is barking constantly…

I’ll take the low road….

Villafranca del Bierzo – La Portela de Valcarce Today we are faced with two choices, the high road with a very steep descent at the end or the low road following the winding river. My left knee is still very painful and we decide to avoid paths involving declines for today. Whew. We have one…